Quick answer: A Norfolk jacket is a belted country jacket with box pleats that open as the arms move, and the belt, pleats, yoke and pockets each need their own line in the brief. Send a reference photo of front and back, write the parts list below, and check movement and belt height on the sample before it is sealed. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send front and back reference photos on WhatsApp.
The Norfolk jacket began as a shooting jacket and is back as a heritage piece for autumn lines. In a photo it is a tweed jacket with a belt. On the cutting table it has pleats that must open and close cleanly, a belt that must sit right on every size, often a yoke, and large pockets that carry weight. A brief that says "Norfolk jacket, tweed" leaves all that to guesswork.
What makes a jacket a Norfolk jacket?
Three features, in most versions:
A belt at or just above the waist, either all the way round or across the back alone, sometimes passing through the pleats or under them.
Box pleats, usually two down the front and one or two down the back, which open when the arms reach forward.
A yoke across the shoulders in many versions, from which the pleats fall.
Add large patch or bellows pockets and a cloth with body, classically tweed.
Parts and what to write
Part Options What to write Belt Full belt, or back belt alone "Full belt, buckle at front" or "back belt, buttoned" Belt height At or above the natural waist "Belt at natural waist" with the measured point Front pleats None, or two box pleats "Two front box pleats, from yoke to hem" Back pleats One or two box pleats "Two back box pleats" or "one centre box pleat" Yoke Front and back, back alone, or none "Back yoke" or "no yoke" Pockets Patch, bellows, flap "Bellows pockets with flaps" or as reference Front Three or four buttons, single-breasted Button count and stance Sleeve Plain or with a strap or patch As reference
Same table as a list
Belt: a full belt or a back belt alone — write "full belt, buckle at front" or "back belt, buttoned".
Belt height: at or above the natural waist — write "belt at natural waist" with the measured point.
Front pleats: none or two box pleats — write "two front box pleats, from yoke to hem".
Back pleats: one or two box pleats — write "two back box pleats" or "one centre box pleat".
Yoke: front and back, back alone, or none — write "back yoke" or "no yoke".
Pockets: patch, bellows or flap — write "bellows pockets with flaps" or as reference.
Front: three or four buttons, single-breasted — write the button count and stance.
Sleeve: plain or with a strap or patch — as reference.
Belt height on a size run
On an MTM order the belt sits at the measured waist. On a size run it grades with the jacket length, so a short client in a regular length finds it low. Write the belt position on the size run as a distance from the shoulder that grades with the length, and check it on the size set; short, regular and long lengths are covered in jacket lengths for a size run.
Pleats that work
A pleat stitched down along its length does not open. Write whether the pleats are free below the yoke or belt, or stitched. Free pleats give the reach the jacket was designed for; stitched pleats keep a cleaner look. On a patterned cloth, ask for the pleat edges to follow the pattern; matching points are in stripe and check matching.
Cloth and construction
Tweed is the classic, and the heavy-cloth notes are in the tweed brief. A soft woolen gives the pleats a fuller fold than a smooth worsted; see worsted vs woolen suit cloth. Pleats and belt add layers at the waist, so a soft, light front suits the jacket better than a heavy structured one. An undarted, natural-shoulder cut sits well with the style; the sack-cut lines are in sack suit style. Other odd-jacket points are in sport coat sample points.
Six points to check on the sample
Reach: client reaches forward — the back pleats should open and close again.
Belt height: at the agreed point, level all round.
Belt fastening: buckle or buttons sit flat, no pull at the side.
Pleat edges: straight, pressed, on pattern where agreed.
Pockets: flat when empty, no sag when the client puts a phone in.
Bulk at the waist: belt and pleats do not build up a ridge.
Photograph with the arms forward and write corrections in words. Review steps are on our sample policy page.
Which track fits a Norfolk jacket?
MTM — from 1 piece: a single client's Norfolk jacket carries the parts list and the belt point on that order.
Bulk — from 50 per style: a private-label autumn line sets belt, pleats, yoke and pockets on the sealed sample and checks the belt height on the size set.
The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. Bulk programmes are on our suit manufacturer China page.
Send front and back reference photos on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Is a Norfolk jacket part of a suit? It can be; most are worn as odd jackets.
Can the belt be removable? It can be discussed; write it on the brief so the loops are planned.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send front and back reference photos, the parts list and the cloth. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-11-01. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
