Wool cloth relaxes when it meets steam. If it has not been relaxed before cutting, a garment can come off the press slightly smaller than the pattern — a sleeve shorter, a trouser leg a touch tighter. Mills and tailors have dealt with this for a long time, and "London shrunk" is the oldest name for the answer. For a shop sending its own cloth, or ordering a cloth in, the useful part is knowing which question to ask.
What "London shrunk" means
London shrunk is a traditional cold-water finishing process for wool cloth. The cloth is dampened — classically by being rolled with wet blankets — left to relax, then dried naturally without tension and pressed. The aim is to release the tension built up in weaving and finishing so the cloth does not shrink later when the tailor presses it with steam. Some cloth is sold with the finish stated on the selvedge or bunch.
Today's versions
Mill-stabilised cloth. Many modern suitings are finished at the mill to be stable under steam. The bunch or mill note may say so.
Sponging before cutting. Some workshops steam ("sponge") cloth before it is cut, especially cloth whose finish is unknown.
No treatment. Cloth that is already stable may be cut as it is.
Which applies to your cloth is a question for the mill note and the factory, not a guess.
Which cloths raise the question
Cloth from an unfamiliar source, or a length the client bought without a mill note.
Loosely finished or soft-handle wools.
Heavier woollens and flannels — see flannel and napped cloth notes.
Blends with cotton or linen, which can behave differently from pure wool.
Measured shrinkage is a lab topic in its own right: ISO 5077 dimensional change covers how it is tested.
What to ask before cutting
Does the mill note or selvedge say how the cloth is finished?
For ordered-in or your own cloth: will the cloth be checked, and sponged if needed, before cutting? Ask how this is decided for your order.
If treatment reduces the usable length, is the quantity you sent still enough?
Put the answers in the order thread. For customer-supplied cloth, these questions go with the parcel; see customer-supplied fabric (CMT).
Where this sits in the clock
Our clocks are sample 7–14 days and production 14–21 days, counted after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. For cloth that arrives from outside, "cloth locked" includes the cloth being at the factory and checked; any decision about treatment belongs to that step, before the sample is cut. Production days are not delivery days. The cloth side of timing is in cloth stock vs mill order.
MTM and bulk
For an MTM from 1 order, the question is about one cut length. For bulk from 50 per style, it applies to every roll, and a shrinkage surprise multiplies across the size run — ask it before the first cut. Cloth programmes are on our suit manufacturer China page; where cloth checks sit is on our process page.
Ask on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with the cloth reference.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked.
Does all suit cloth need London shrinking? No. Many modern cloths are stabilised at the mill; check the mill note and ask for your cloth.
Will pre-shrinking change how much cloth I should send? It can reduce usable length slightly; ask for the quantity in writing before you buy.
Is sponging the same as London shrunk? Both relax the cloth before cutting; London shrunk is the traditional cold-water method, sponging uses steam.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd. (Baokang Road).
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send the cloth reference and how it is reaching the factory; we reply with the questions to settle before cutting. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
