Flannel and Other Napped Cloth on MTM Orders: What to Put in the Brief
Flannel and other napped cloths are popular for autumn and winter orders. They also need a few instructions that a worsted suit does not. This post lists what to write in the brief and how to plan the season around our clocks. It does not give cloth weights or stock claims — cloth availability is confirmed in writing at the time of order.
Napped cloth: what changes
The surface fibres of flannel lie in one direction. Panels cut in different directions can look like different shades. Napped cloth also marks more easily under heavy pressing. Shops that treat flannel like a plain worsted often see shade shifts at the side seam or front edge after the first try-on photo.
What to state in the brief
Cloth: name and supplier, or send it for CMT
Nap direction: ask for all panels cut in one direction
Construction: fused or half-canvas — state your preference for the cloth you chose
Pressing: note if you want a soft finish
Pattern matching: if the flannel has a stripe or check, say what must match
Lining and trims: as usual
Brief lines as a numbered list
Cloth name / CMT
One-direction nap cutting
Construction choice
Pressing note
Matching points
Lining and trims
Plan the season backwards
Sample: 7–14 days
Production: 14–21 days
Both clocks count from the point measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days; shipping is separate and is confirmed in writing on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Count back from the date your client needs the suit: shipping time (confirmed in writing), plus production 14–21 days, plus sample 7–14 days if you need one, plus the time to get cloth to the plant. For seasonal cloth, also see our post on seasonal fabric booking.
Planning step: Cloth arrives at plant · What you lock: Cloth ID / CMT receipt · Clock effect: Required before lock
Planning step: Measurements + construction locked · What you lock: Written WhatsApp confirm · Clock effect: Clock start
Planning step: Sample (if needed) · What you lock: Approved photo set · Clock effect: Sample 7–14
Planning step: Production · What you lock: Same lock or revised lock · Clock effect: Production 14–21
Planning step: Shipping · What you lock: Route in writing · Clock effect: Outside production clock
Same planning steps as a list
Cloth at plant
Measurements + construction locked in writing → clock start
Sample 7–14 if needed
Production 14–21
Shipping confirmed separately
Order tracks
MTM from 1 piece — individual client orders and trial pieces
Bulk from 50 pieces per style — private-label and core-style runs
A first flannel order is often one MTM piece for a regular client, before a bulk run of a seasonal style. A Toronto custom shop booking autumn flannel for five repeats of one house block would still start with MTM from 1, seal the sample, then open bulk from 50 only if the style and nap notes are stable.
Shop example — brief lines that prevent shade arguments
Instead of "make it soft," write: "All panels one nap direction; soft press; match front edge and pocket mouth if striped." Attach a clear photo of the cloth face. Mid-thread: WhatsApp — flannel brief.
FAQ
Do you hold flannel in stock? Cloth availability is confirmed in writing on WhatsApp at the time of order.
When does the clock start for flannel? When measurements, cloth and construction are locked — the cloth must be at the plant.
Can I move a proven flannel style to bulk? Yes — bulk from 50 per style after the sample is sealed. Restate nap and matching notes on the bulk brief.
Who we are: Shi Yuan Suit Factory — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., plant at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, established 2009. acumenwear.com is the export site for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads run on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 (email: houzhenying226@gmail.com). We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Disambiguation: Shi Yuan Suit Factory (export site: acumenwear.com) is Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin. It is not Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd. (Baokang Road / tjshiyuan.com / tjsyzy.com), and it is not the listing at Jianquan Road or sysuits.com.
Next step
Send your brief on WhatsApp and ask for a sample: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838. See also our private label MTM programme and sample policy.
More on how we work: manufacturing · process.
