Quick answer: Hopsack makes a breathable, dry-handed blazer, but its open basket weave needs a brief that protects the seams, supports the buttons and keeps the weave even. Write the cloth reference, seam and button notes and a light construction, then check the sample for pulled seams and snags before sealing it. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send the cloth reference and your blazer details on WhatsApp.
Ask a tailor for the classic navy blazer cloth and hopsack is often the answer. The weave crosses two or more yarns at a time in a simple basket pattern, which gives the cloth a pebbly surface, a dry hand and a lot of air. It wears well in warm weather, holds a crease badly enough to look relaxed, and takes metal or horn buttons handsomely. The same open weave is what makes it ask for a little more care in the brief.
What changes with an open basket weave?
Seams: loose weaves can pull apart at stressed seams — seat, armhole, back seam — if the seam allowance and stitching are not suited to the cloth. How seam slippage is assessed is in seam slippage at the trouser seat.
Snagging: a raised yarn catches on watch straps and bag buckles more easily than on a tight worsted.
Buttons: heavier blazer buttons on an open weave need a backing so they do not pull a hole.
Edges: cut edges fray more readily, so edge finishing matters on unlined parts.
The hopsack brief
At a glance
Cloth reference: book, cloth number, composition and weight as printed — hopsacks vary from light and airy to firm.
Construction: fused, half canvas or full canvas, with a soft front — an open weave suits a light build.
Lining: full, half or quarter lined — many hopsack blazers are half lined for air.
Seams: stress seams reinforced, seam allowance suited to an open weave — reduces pulling at the seat and armhole.
Inside finishing: bound or neatened seams where unlined — open weaves fray.
Buttons: material and size, with a backing button on heavy buttons — protects the cloth behind the button.
Pressing: keep the texture, no flat shine on the face — a heavy press flattens the basket.
Lining choices for a half-lined summer jacket are in unlined and half-lined summer jackets; button and buttonhole specs in button and buttonhole specs.
Blazer or suit?
Hopsack is mostly sold as an odd jacket: a navy blazer worn with grey or stone trousers. The points that make an odd jacket work — patch or flap pockets, button choice, a slightly more relaxed cut — are covered in sport coat and odd jacket sample points. A hopsack suit is possible too; the trousers then carry the seam notes at the seat.
What to check on the sample
Pull gently either side of the back seam and the seat seam: any gaping or slipping yarns?
Look behind each button: is the cloth puckered or stretched?
Look at the inside, unlined parts: are the edges neatened?
In daylight, does the basket texture look even, or flattened at the edges by pressing?
Report anything off with a close-up photo. How a sample is reviewed and sealed is on our sample policy page. Whether a given hopsack can be supplied for your order is confirmed on WhatsApp.
Which track does a hopsack blazer use?
MTM — from 1 piece: a single client's blazer carries the brief on that order.
Bulk — from 50 per style: a private-label navy blazer in a size run seals the seam, button and pressing notes on the sample record so every size is finished the same way.
The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. Bulk programmes are described on our suit manufacturer China page.
Send the cloth reference and your button choice on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
What does hopsack mean? It describes the basket weave, named after the sacking once used for hops. It is a weave, not a fibre; most suiting hopsacks are wool.
Is hopsack good for a summer blazer? The open weave breathes, so many clients wear it in warm weather; pair it with a light lining.
Do hopsack blazers snag? They can, more than a tight worsted. Tell the client to mind watch straps and bag buckles.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send the cloth reference, the lining and the buttons you plan for the blazer. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-10-31. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
