Quick answer: The lapel roll is decided by construction and pressing, so it has to be written on the order as a roll style, not left to the presser. Choose a soft roll or a pressed lapel, write it with the roll line and construction, then check it on the sample with the jacket buttoned. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send a photo of the lapel roll you want on WhatsApp.
Look at a good jacket buttoned, from the side. The lapel does not fold back like a page. It turns over in a gentle curve from the top button up to the collar, and the curve has a little life in it. That curve is the lapel roll, and the line where the lapel turns is the roll line. On a cheaper jacket the lapel is pressed flat to the chest with a hard crease. Neither is wrong — but a shop or brand that wants one and receives the other has a sample to reject.
Soft roll or pressed lapel?
At a glance
Soft roll: the lapel curves over with no hard crease on the roll line — usually with a canvassed front and natural shoulder; write "soft roll, no press on the roll line".
Moderate roll: a defined line with some curve — usually half canvas and most business jackets; write "roll line defined, keep a slight curve".
Pressed flat: the lapel lies flat with a crease — usually fused fronts and a cleaner commercial look; write "lapel pressed to the roll line".
Why the construction decides most of it
A canvassed chest with a shaped lapel holds a roll; a fused front tends to sit flatter. That is why the roll style and the construction should be chosen together: asking for a deep soft roll on a light fused front can be discussed, but the sample will show what the combination does. The three constructions are compared in fused, half canvas and full canvas, and how to tell which one a sample actually has in checking a fused or canvas front.
Where the roll line starts
The roll line runs from the top button to the collar. On a two-button jacket it usually starts at the top button; on a three-roll-two jacket the lapel rolls past the top button, which is left unbuttoned. Write which you want. Button height changes where the roll starts, and lapel width and gorge change how it looks — see lapel width and gorge height.
Lapel faults to report
Lapel lifts off the chest when buttoned: often chest shape or balance. Send a side photo, buttoned, client relaxed.
Lapel edge curls outwards: can come from edge tape or pressing. Send a close-up in even light.
Roll line pressed flat when a soft roll was ordered: a pressing instruction issue. Quote the order line.
Collar and lapel do not meet cleanly at the gorge: send a front close-up of the notch.
If the gap is at the back neck rather than the lapel, use the collar gap report instead. How a sample is reviewed and sealed is on our sample policy page.
Do not judge the roll straight out of the parcel
A lapel folded in transit can come out flat or creased. Hang the jacket, let it rest, and look again before reporting. Some shops run a light steam over the roll — not a press — before the fitting.
Which track does the lapel roll sit on?
MTM — from 1 piece: a soft roll is usually part of the house style, written once and carried on every client order.
Bulk — from 50 per style: the roll style goes on the sealed sample record with the construction; every size is pressed to the same note.
The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. How the steps run from sample to production is on our process page.
Send a side photo of the lapel roll you want on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Can a pressed lapel be changed to a soft roll later? Sometimes partly, by a skilled tailor, depending on the construction. It is far simpler to write it on the order.
Does a soft roll need full canvas? Not always; half canvas can give a good roll. Confirm on the thread for your construction and cloth.
Should the lapel roll be the same on MTM and bulk? If it is part of your house style, yes — write it once and reference it.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send a side photo of the lapel roll you want and the construction you plan to use. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-10-31. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
