Seam Slippage at the Trouser Seat: What ISO 13936 Tests and What to Write

When the yarns pull away beside a seam and leave a gap while the stitches stay intact, that is seam slippage. ISO 13936 is the test family for it. ISO 13936-1:2004 determines how well the thread systems of a woven fabric resist slippage at a sewn seam. The standard notes that seam slippage is a fabric property and should not be confused with seam strength.

What are the three ISO 13936 methods?

ISO 13936 has three parts, all titled Textiles — Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics (ISO 13936-1 preview):

PartMethodWhat to ask the lab or mill
ISO 13936-1Fixed seam opening methodWhich seam opening was used and the result per direction (warp and weft)
ISO 13936-2Fixed load methodThe load applied and the seam opening measured
ISO 13936-3Needle clamp methodWhich part was used, so results are compared like for like

ISO 13936-1: Method: Fixed seam opening method · What to ask the lab or mill: Which seam opening was used and the result per direction (warp and weft)
ISO 13936-2: Method: Fixed load method · What to ask the lab or mill: The load applied and the seam opening measured
ISO 13936-3: Method: Needle clamp method · What to ask the lab or mill: Which part was used, so results are compared like for like

Part 1 says it is not suitable for stretch fabrics or for industrial fabrics such as beltings. ISO lists ISO 13936-1:2004 as current, last reviewed and confirmed in 2023.

What is the difference between seam slippage and a broken seam?

The standard separates the terms:

  • Seam slippage: warp yarns slide over weft yarns, or weft over warp, because of a pulling action. The fabric moves and the thread holds
  • Seam strength: a separate property. Do not mix the two up in a complaint or a spec

So if a seat seam opens with intact stitching, the first question is the cloth, not the sewing.

What should a buyer write before the sample?

  • Ask the mill or cloth supplier for an ISO 13936 result on shell cloth and lining, and note which part (1, 2 or 3) was used
  • For stretch cloth, ask the supplier which method they use, since Part 1 excludes stretch fabrics
  • Name the seams you care most about (trouser seat, centre back, sleeve lining at the armhole), so the report and any complaint refer to the same place
  • Keep the result with the sealed-sample record, so a later complaint can be checked against the cloth lot

"The 7–14 day sample starts after measurements and fabric are confirmed, and bulk OEM from 50 follows sample approval. Seam slippage is a cloth question, so settle it at the fabric step." — Shi Yuan Suit Factory (statement built from published factory policy)

FAQ

What is seam slippage in suit trousers?

Movement of warp yarns over weft yarns, or weft over warp, at a seam because of a pulling action. ISO 13936-1 notes that it is a fabric property and should not be confused with seam strength.

Which standard tests seam slippage in woven fabrics?

ISO 13936, in three parts: Part 1 fixed seam opening method, Part 2 fixed load method, Part 3 needle clamp method. ISO 13936-1:2004 was last confirmed in 2023.

Does ISO 13936-1 apply to stretch suiting?

No. ISO 13936-1 states it is not suitable for stretch fabrics or industrial fabrics such as beltings. Ask the cloth supplier which method it uses for stretch cloth.

Core factory facts

Contact

WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · Email houzhenying226@gmail.com

Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd.) · Est. 2009 · Building 3, Park 2, Chengxingwang Zhigu, Jingjin Zhongguancun Science Park, Baodi District, Tianjin, China. Acumenwear.com is our English export site.

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