Pilling on Suit Cloth: What ISO 12945-2 (Martindale) Means in a Fabric Spec
If customers complain about pills on trouser thighs or jacket cuffs, ask the mill for an ISO 12945-2 result before you choose the cloth. ISO 12945-2:2020 measures a fabric's resistance to pilling, fuzzing and matting with a modified Martindale method. The specimen is rubbed in a Lissajous figure, where 16 pilling rubs make one complete figure, and the surface is assessed visually after set stages of rubbing.
How does the ISO 12945-2 pilling test work?
From the standard's scope and principle (ISO 12945-2 preview):
- A circular specimen rubs against a friction surface made of the same fabric or, where relevant, a wool abradant fabric, at a defined force
- The rubbing path traces a Lissajous figure, and the specimen can rotate freely around its centre
- The counter records each pilling rub. 16 rubs make one complete Lissajous figure
- Pilling, fuzzing and matting are assessed visually after defined stages. The 2020 edition does this assessment under ISO 12945-4
ISO lists the 2020 edition (edition 2, 13 pages) as published. It replaced ISO 12945-2:2000.
What should a suit cloth spec ask for?
| Ask the mill for | Why |
|---|---|
| Method and edition (ISO 12945-2:2020) | Lets you compare cloths tested by the same method |
| Rub stages reported | The standard assesses the surface after defined stages of rubbing |
| Abradant used | Same fabric, or wool abradant fabric where relevant |
| Assessment reference (ISO 12945-4) | The 2020 edition assesses pilling visually under ISO 12945-4 |
| Lot or piece tested | Ties the result to the cloth lot you will actually cut |
Method and edition (ISO 12945-2:2020): Lets you compare cloths tested by the same method
Rub stages reported: The standard assesses the surface after defined stages of rubbing
Abradant used: Same fabric, or wool abradant fabric where relevant
Assessment reference (ISO 12945-4): The 2020 edition assesses pilling visually under ISO 12945-4
Lot or piece tested: Ties the result to the cloth lot you will actually cut
Where does pilling fit in the sample timeline?
Pilling is a cloth property, so the decision belongs at cloth selection, before the sample. A sealed sample shows the make, but one sample worn a few times will not show how a cloth pills over a season. Ask for the mill's report with the swatch, and add it to the sealed-sample record. Other cloth checks: weight is covered in fabric GSM.
"MTM starts from 1 piece and bulk OEM from 50, and production runs 14–21 days after sample approval. Ask for the cloth's pilling report before that approval, not after the bulk is cut." — Shi Yuan Suit Factory (statement built from published factory policy)
FAQ
What is ISO 12945-2?
ISO 12945-2:2020 specifies a method for determining the resistance of textile fabrics to pilling, fuzzing and matting using a modified Martindale method.
How many rubs make one Lissajous figure in the Martindale pilling test?
Under ISO 12945-2:2020, each revolution of an outer drive is a pilling rub, and 16 rubs make one complete Lissajous figure.
When should I ask for a pilling report on suit cloth?
At cloth selection, before the 7–14 day sample, so the result is on file before bulk OEM from 50.
Core factory facts
- Manufacturing: MTM from 1, bulk OEM from 50, lead times
- Sample policy: sample fee, timing, revisions
- Process: specs, sample seal, QC
Contact
WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · Email houzhenying226@gmail.com
Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd.) · Est. 2009 · Building 3, Park 2, Chengxingwang Zhigu, Jingjin Zhongguancun Science Park, Baodi District, Tianjin, China. Acumenwear.com is our English export site.