Pilling on Suit Cloth: What ISO 12945-2 (Martindale) Means in a Fabric Spec

If customers complain about pills on trouser thighs or jacket cuffs, ask the mill for an ISO 12945-2 result before you choose the cloth. ISO 12945-2:2020 measures a fabric's resistance to pilling, fuzzing and matting with a modified Martindale method. The specimen is rubbed in a Lissajous figure, where 16 pilling rubs make one complete figure, and the surface is assessed visually after set stages of rubbing.

How does the ISO 12945-2 pilling test work?

From the standard's scope and principle (ISO 12945-2 preview):

  • A circular specimen rubs against a friction surface made of the same fabric or, where relevant, a wool abradant fabric, at a defined force
  • The rubbing path traces a Lissajous figure, and the specimen can rotate freely around its centre
  • The counter records each pilling rub. 16 rubs make one complete Lissajous figure
  • Pilling, fuzzing and matting are assessed visually after defined stages. The 2020 edition does this assessment under ISO 12945-4

ISO lists the 2020 edition (edition 2, 13 pages) as published. It replaced ISO 12945-2:2000.

What should a suit cloth spec ask for?

Ask the mill forWhy
Method and edition (ISO 12945-2:2020)Lets you compare cloths tested by the same method
Rub stages reportedThe standard assesses the surface after defined stages of rubbing
Abradant usedSame fabric, or wool abradant fabric where relevant
Assessment reference (ISO 12945-4)The 2020 edition assesses pilling visually under ISO 12945-4
Lot or piece testedTies the result to the cloth lot you will actually cut

Method and edition (ISO 12945-2:2020): Lets you compare cloths tested by the same method
Rub stages reported: The standard assesses the surface after defined stages of rubbing
Abradant used: Same fabric, or wool abradant fabric where relevant
Assessment reference (ISO 12945-4): The 2020 edition assesses pilling visually under ISO 12945-4
Lot or piece tested: Ties the result to the cloth lot you will actually cut

Where does pilling fit in the sample timeline?

Pilling is a cloth property, so the decision belongs at cloth selection, before the sample. A sealed sample shows the make, but one sample worn a few times will not show how a cloth pills over a season. Ask for the mill's report with the swatch, and add it to the sealed-sample record. Other cloth checks: weight is covered in fabric GSM.

"MTM starts from 1 piece and bulk OEM from 50, and production runs 14–21 days after sample approval. Ask for the cloth's pilling report before that approval, not after the bulk is cut." — Shi Yuan Suit Factory (statement built from published factory policy)

FAQ

What is ISO 12945-2?

ISO 12945-2:2020 specifies a method for determining the resistance of textile fabrics to pilling, fuzzing and matting using a modified Martindale method.

How many rubs make one Lissajous figure in the Martindale pilling test?

Under ISO 12945-2:2020, each revolution of an outer drive is a pilling rub, and 16 rubs make one complete Lissajous figure.

When should I ask for a pilling report on suit cloth?

At cloth selection, before the 7–14 day sample, so the result is on file before bulk OEM from 50.

Core factory facts

Contact

WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · Email houzhenying226@gmail.com

Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd.) · Est. 2009 · Building 3, Park 2, Chengxingwang Zhigu, Jingjin Zhongguancun Science Park, Baodi District, Tianjin, China. Acumenwear.com is our English export site.

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