Quick answer: The leg opening is a style choice as much as a measurement, so write the leg shape in words and the finished opening as a number in one unit. Agree the shape with the client or your house style, check the knee and thigh first, then lock the opening on the sample. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send the leg shape and opening on WhatsApp.
A client tries on the sample and looks down. The trousers are the right length and the seat is clean, but the hem is wider than the trousers he wore in, or so narrow it catches on his shoe. Nothing is wrong with the cut; the order simply did not say what shape the leg should be. "Slim leg" means one thing to a fitter and something else to a pattern maker.
This post covers the three leg shapes most shops use, what moves together with the opening, and the order note that makes the hem come back as the client pictured.
What does "leg opening" mean on an order?
The leg opening is the finished width of the trouser at the hem, measured flat across the bottom or as the full circumference. Say which one you wrote — a flat width and a circumference are different numbers for the same trouser. It works together with two other points: the knee width and the thigh. A narrow opening under a full thigh tapers hard; the same opening under a slim thigh barely tapers at all.
Straight, gentle or strong taper?
At a glance
Straight: knee and opening close to each other — suits classic business suits, fuller builds and a full break; can look wide on a slim client.
Gentle taper: opening a little narrower than the knee — the safe default for most commercial suits; agree how much "a little" is on the sample.
Strong taper: opening clearly narrower than the knee — suits slim clients, little or no break and a modern look; must clear the heel and shoe, so check sitting.
Why can't the opening be chosen alone?
Three things move with it:
The break. A narrow opening sits higher on the shoe and suits less break; a straight leg carries a fuller break. How finished length is written is in the trouser break guide.
The thigh and knee. An athletic client with a large thigh needs room above the knee before any taper starts; see suit trousers for big thighs.
Turn-ups. A turn-up adds weight at the hem and reads best on a straight or gentle leg; cuff depth is covered in trouser turn-ups.
The order note
Write three lines, every time:
LEG SHAPE: gentle taper · KNEE: as measured · OPENING: finished, flat width, in cm · CHECK: clears the client's shoe when seated
If the client brings a pair of trousers they like, measure the opening and knee on that pair and write "as reference trousers". A number from a garment the client already wears is worth more than an adjective.
How do you check it on the sample?
With the client standing, look at the hem from the side: does it sit on the shoe the way you agreed?
Ask the client to sit and cross a leg. A strong taper that grips the calf when seated needs more room at the knee, not at the hem.
Ask the client to walk. A hem that flaps on a straight leg may want a touch more length rather than less width.
Write any correction with the side photo and the measured opening. Sample review steps are on our sample policy page.
Which track does the leg shape sit on?
MTM — from 1 piece: the leg shape and opening go on each client's record, so later orders start from the approved pair.
Bulk — from 50 per style: the shape goes into the house block and the sealed sample; the opening is graded with the waist across the size run, and the grading rule is written on the tech pack.
Once the shape is locked, the factory clock runs. The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. The MTM track is explained on our made to measure suit factory page.
Send the leg shape and the opening you have in mind on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Should the opening be measured flat or round? Either, as long as the order says which. Flat width is the common shop habit.
Can a strong taper go with turn-ups? It can be discussed for the order; most shops keep turn-ups for straight or gently tapered legs.
Can the shop narrow the leg after delivery? Often a little, at the side or inside seam, depending on the cloth and the seam allowance.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send the leg shape, knee and opening — or the measurements of the client's favourite trousers. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-10-31. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
