Turn-ups — cuffs, in American usage — are the folded band at the bottom of a trouser leg. They add a little weight to the hem so the trouser hangs cleanly, they suit heavier cloths and pleated fronts, and they are a style signature for many shops. They are also one of the details most often left off the order, which is a problem: turn-ups need extra cloth at the hem, and once the trouser is cut without it, they cannot be added.
This post covers what to write for turn-ups on a made-to-measure order, and how bulk runs handle them differently.
What a turn-up order line needs
Turn-ups: yes or no — decides whether extra cloth is left at the hem.
Depth: the finished depth of the band, with its unit — a vague depth comes back as someone else's taste.
Finished length: to the bottom of the turn-up, as pinned — the length the client sees.
Hem shape: straight, or a slight forward slant — a slant is harder with turn-ups, so say if wanted.
Tacking: tacked at the side seams, or loose — keeps the band in place.
Depth is a style decision. Many shops pick a house depth and vary it with the client's height and the cloth weight: a deeper band on a tall client in a heavy cloth, a shallower one on a shorter client in a lighter one. Write the number you want.
When turn-ups suit, and when they fight
Pleated fronts and fuller legs: turn-ups are traditional company.
Heavy cloths, such as tweeds and flannels: the extra weight helps the hang. Heavy-cloth briefs are covered in tweed and heavy cloth briefs.
Very narrow leg openings: the band can look bulky; some shops avoid it.
Dinner suits: turn-ups are traditionally not used on evening trousers.
A full break: turn-ups and a deep break pile up. Break and length are covered in the trouser break guide.
On MTM orders
On MTM from 1, the finished length is pinned at the fitting, in the client's own shoes, and the turn-up depth is written next to it. The pattern maker adds the cloth needed for the fold. The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. A turn-up added after the lock is a change in writing — and if the trouser has already been cut without the allowance, it may not be possible at all, so decide at the fitting.
For athletic legs, check the opening against the thigh-to-knee taper before choosing a deep band; see suit trousers for big thighs.
On bulk runs
A bulk run from 50 per style does not know the buyer's height, so turn-ups need a decision:
Finished turn-ups at graded lengths. Clean on the rail, but every buyer outside the graded length needs a tailor who can work with the band.
Open hem with turn-up allowance. The store sets the length and turns the cuff for each buyer. More work at the store, far fewer returns for length. The open-hem approach is covered in unfinished hem trousers.
Whichever you choose, it is sealed on the sample and written on the order. Bulk programmes are on our private label suit manufacturer page.
A worked order line
Client: tall, heavy flannel, double forward pleats, wears brogues with the suit.
Turn-ups: yes
Depth: as chosen at the fitting, in centimetres
Finished length: to bottom of turn-up, as pinned in brogues
Hem: straight
Tacking: tacked at side seams
Note: "no break; turn-up resting lightly on the shoe"
Every line on it is a decision the factory would otherwise have to guess.
The single-client route is on our made to measure suit factory page. Send your order line on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we confirm it before cutting.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Can turn-ups be added later by a local tailor? If there is enough cloth at the hem, often yes; without it, no. Ask for the allowance on the order if you may want them later.
Do turn-ups change the finished length? Write the length to the bottom of the turn-up, so the number is the one the client sees.
Should a house sample carry turn-ups? If they are part of your house style, yes; seal them with the sample.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send your house turn-up depth and the order line for the next pair. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-10-29. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
