Suit Shoulder Divots: Reading the Cause on a Sample and Writing the Fix into the Spec

Shoulder divots are the small dents that appear just below or in front of the shoulder point when the client stands with arms relaxed. On a hanger they disappear. On a body they make an otherwise clean jacket look as if it is collapsing at the top of the sleeve. Clients notice them in photos; fitters notice them at once.

A divot is not one fault. Where it sits says most of what is going on, and the fix belongs in the spec, not just in a shop alteration. This post gives a location table, what to send the factory, and what gets locked so later orders do not repeat it.

Where the divot sits, and what it usually means

  • Just below the shoulder point, outer arm: check shoulder width against the client's shoulder or a short pad edge — send a front photo with arms relaxed and the measured shoulder width; lock shoulder width and pad size.

  • In front of the arm, near the armhole: check sleeve pitch or front shoulder fullness — send a side photo and note whether the client carries the arms forward; lock sleeve pitch and the front shoulder note.

  • Across the upper back below the collar: check shoulder slope or posture — send a back photo and a slope note; lock the slope adjustment on the record.

  • At the top of the sleeve head: check whether sleeve head support is too light for the cloth — send a close-up under even light; lock the sleeve head note (roped, natural or with a light wadding).

The table is a starting point for the conversation, not a diagnosis. The pattern maker decides the correction from your evidence; the report format in the collar gap report works the same way here.

Pads and sleeve heads are part of the spec

Many divots trace back to a mismatch between the shoulder style the shop wanted and what was written. A soft, natural shoulder with no pad behaves differently from a structured shoulder with a firm pad — both are valid, but the choice has to be on the order. The style choice is discussed in soft vs structured shoulder; how canvas and pads are locked for repeat orders in canvas and shoulder pad lock.

Write these lines on every order where the shoulder matters:

  • Shoulder style: soft / natural / structured.

  • Pad: none, light, or as on the sealed sample.

  • Sleeve head: roped, natural, or as on the sealed sample.

  • Client shoulder width and slope, measured, not estimated.

Before blaming the pattern

  • Has the jacket hung for a day after travel? Parcel folds can push the sleeve head in.

  • Is the client wearing a shirt of normal thickness?

  • Is the divot on both sides? A one-sided divot often points to a lower shoulder on that side — note which.

MTM and bulk handle the fix differently

On MTM from 1, the correction goes into the client's record and the next garment starts from it. On bulk from 50 per style, a divot on the sample is fixed before the run: the corrected shoulder is checked on the sealed sample, then graded across the sizes. How the steps run from sample to production is on our process page; how a sample is reviewed and sealed on our sample policy page. The correction is confirmed in writing on the thread before production starts. The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days.

Send the front photo and the shoulder width on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.

FAQ

What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.

Can a tailor fix shoulder divots after delivery? Sometimes, depending on the cause and the construction. Fixing the record matters more, so the next jacket is right from the start.

Are divots more common on soft shoulders? A soft shoulder shows the body's shape more, so a mismatch is easier to see. It is not a reason to avoid soft shoulders.

Does the cloth matter? Yes. Soft, light cloth shows small dents more than a firm worsted.

Who makes this

Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.

Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.

Next step: sample or inquiry

Send the front and side photos with arms relaxed and the measured shoulder width. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.

Last checked: 2026-10-30. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.

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Barchetta Breast Pocket: Specifying It So Every Size Matches the Sealed Sample

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Suit Jacket Collar Gap on an MTM Sample: What to Photograph and Measure Before You Report It