Locking Horsehair Canvas and Shoulder Pads in a Suit OEM Tech Pack
"Half canvas" on a WhatsApp message is not a tech pack. Cutters need to know which canvas fibre, how far the canvas runs, which shoulder pad, and whether the sleeve head gets a roll. Without those lines, two factories can both say "half canvas" and deliver different jackets.
This post is for private-label and OEM buyers locking construction with Shi Yuan Suit Factory in Baodi, Tianjin. It is a package checklist you can paste into your brief.
The package, not the buzzword
Horsehair canvas is a traditional interlining blend (often wool + horsehair) used in structured jackets. Whether a jacket is fused, half canvas or full canvas describes how far that structure runs — not whether horsehair is present. A half-canvas jacket may use horsehair canvas in the chest; a fused jacket may use none. Write both: construction type and canvas/pad package.
Our overview of fused, half and full canvas covers the three builds. This note is about locking the materials inside the build you choose.
Tech-pack lines that prevent silent substitutions
| Line | What to write | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Construction | fused / half canvas / full canvas | Sets where structure lives |
| Chest canvas | fibre (e.g. horsehair blend) + area (chest only / to waist) | Stops a soft fusible replacing horsehair on reorder |
| Shoulder pad | thickness (mm or "thin/medium") + shape (natural / built) | Pads that "stick out" are usually the wrong shape, not "too much pad" |
| Sleeve head | roll / wadding yes-no + amount note | Changes how the sleeve sits on the shoulder |
| Fuse map (if fused or mixed) | which panels are fused | Avoids fused lapels on a "half canvas" brief |
If you only control one line, control construction + pad. Those two change the silhouette more than lining colour.
Shoulder pads: write shape, not just "with pads"
Buyers search "suit shoulder pads stick out" because the pad is fighting the natural shoulder or the canvas. For OEM:
- natural / soft shoulder → thin pad or pad-light, canvas carries the line;
- structured / built shoulder → medium pad with a defined head;
- no pad → say so explicitly; silence gets interpreted as "factory default."
Ask for a side photo of the sealed sample with the arm relaxed. If the pad ridge is visible through cloth, fix it on the seal — not after fifty jackets.
Sample first, then freeze the package
We make a sample in 7–14 days once the package and cloth are confirmed. After you approve in writing, production for that style runs in a 14–21 day window. Changing horsehair to a softer canvas after seal is a new sample, not a mid-bulk swap.
On seal day, keep a physical note (or WhatsApp message) that lists the five lines above. Reorders should quote that note. See sample policy for what we need before the clock starts.
What we will not invent
We do not claim a secret canvas formula, unverified interlining, or a luxury-maison construction method. We will name the construction and pad package you approved and repeat it on reorder. If a mill changes a canvas SKU, we flag it before cutting — we do not silently substitute.
Worked example (hypothetical)
A Singapore private-label brand wants an entry navy suit that still holds a chest. Brief: half canvas, horsehair-blend chest piece to the waist dart, thin natural pad, light sleeve-head roll. Sample arrives with a medium pad that creates a ridge. They reject, we remake with the thin pad, seal, then open bulk from 50. The second sample cost less than a chargeback on padded shoulders.
How this sits with lining and pad specs
Lining fibre and pad thickness also appear in our lining and shoulder-pad specs note. Use that for fibre codes; use this post for the canvas + pad package as one lockable unit. Manufacturing capacity and MOQ context: manufacturing.
Send the package in one WhatsApp
Country, monthly volume, bulk or MTM, construction, canvas fibre, pad note. We reply with what the sample will show.
WhatsApp Shi Yuan about canvas + pad lock
What "unfinished" must mean in the brief
Write one of these exact states so the sewing floor and your shop mean the same thing:
| State | Factory leaves | Your shop does | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open hem, raw | Trouser leg open at the hem with enough turn-up for your tape | Mark length on the client, sew the hem | MTM clients who change shoes often |
| Blind-hem allowance only | Hem folded but not closed, or basted | Close after fitting | Boutiques that want a cleaner try-on |
| Finished to size | Hem closed to the measurement you sent | Minor tweak only | Remote MTM where the client will not visit |
If you write only "unfinished," two operators can disagree. Name the row.
Freight and pressing notes
Unfinished hems travel better when legs are folded along the crease, not crushed under the jacket. Ask for a crease press before pack if your shop will hang trousers the day they arrive. Do not assume the factory will leave an extra long allowance unless you write the centimetres.
Link to measurement handoff
Length depends on how you measured. Pair this brief with your measurement form so inseam, break preference and shoe height sit in one place.
Start with one sealed package
WhatsApp the construction package · Email houzhenying226@gmail.com
Shi Yuan Suit Factory, Baodi, Tianjin. Acumenwear.com is our English export site.
