Quick answer: Peak lapels point up at the gorge and read formal or sharp; notch lapels have a step between collar and lapel and are the default on most day suits — the shop must lock which shape, plus width and gorge height, before the sample. Write peak or notch, the width and gorge notes, and a reference photo on the jacket brief. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send the lapel choice and a reference photo on WhatsApp.
A client says he wants a "sharper" jacket. The cutter hears peak lapels; the salesman hears a narrower notch. Without a written choice the sample becomes an argument. Peak versus notch is a style decision with measurement lines attached; it is not the same as lapel roll, and it is not evening facing cloth.
What is the difference between a peak lapel and a notch lapel?
A notch lapel has a V-shaped step where the collar meets the lapel. A peak lapel has points that turn up toward the shoulder, with little or no step. Notch is the usual day-suit default. Peak is common on double-breasted jackets, formal day looks and some sharp single-breasted house styles. Shawl lapels are a third family used mainly on dinner jackets and are covered with evening facings in the tuxedo brief.
Decision table
Notch: most single-breasted day suits and blazers — width and gorge still needed.
Peak: double-breasted, formal day, and sharp single-breasted house style — peak angle and point length must be clear.
Shawl: dinner jacket or tuxedo — facing cloth must be stated separately.
What else must sit next to the peak-or-notch line?
Lapel width and gorge height. A wide peak and a narrow peak are different jackets. A high gorge and a low gorge change how the chest opens. Those two measurements are the companion brief in lapel width and gorge height. Soft roll versus pressed-flat lapels is a pressing and construction note in the lapel roll line. Button stance interacts with how much lapel shows above the top button; keep stance on the same sketch.
Spec lines
Shape: "notch lapel" or "peak lapel" — never "sharp" alone.
Width: width at the widest point as agreed on the reference.
Gorge: gorge height from the neck point as on the sheet.
DB or SB: double-breasted or single-breasted, because peak is often assumed on DB and must still be written.
Facing: self cloth for day suits unless a contrast facing is briefed separately.
A worked note
"Client ref A-12. Single-breasted day jacket, peak lapels, width and gorge per attached sketch. Self-faced. Soft roll kept. Two-button stance as house default."
At the sample
Confirm peak or notch against the sketch before discussing fit.
Measure width and gorge; write the numbers the sheet already uses — do not invent new units on WhatsApp.
Check both lapels for matching shape.
Check the roll: a hard press can flatten a peak that should roll.
Photograph straight-on and three-quarter for the approval note.
House-style note for private-label brands
If the brand always uses notch on single-breasted day suits and peak on double-breasted, write that as a house rule on the line sheet so every style ticket does not re-argue the point. Exceptions for a fashion drop still need their own sketch. Wedding clients who ask for "more formal" without saying peak or notch should be shown both on a reference board before the order is sent.
Self cloth versus contrast facing on a day suit is a separate brief in this batch's facing post when you need that decision; evening satin stays on the tuxedo brief.
Which track fits a lapel decision?
MTM — from 1 piece: one client's jacket with peak or notch locked on his order and sketch.
Bulk — from 50 per style: a brand's style with the lapel shape, width and gorge sealed on the sample before bulk from 50.
The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. How shops brief MTM jackets is on our made to measure suit factory page, and how the sample is judged on our sample policy page.
Send the lapel choice and a reference photo on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Do peak lapels require a double-breasted jacket? No. Peaks are common on double-breasted jackets but also appear on single-breasted house styles when written on the brief.
Is a notch lapel too casual for a wedding? Notch is standard day formal for many shops; peak is a style choice, not a rule of etiquette on this page.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send peak or notch, a reference photo and your gorge and width notes. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-11-06. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
