Quick answer: A frock coat is a knee-length formal coat with a skirt that runs all the way round at the front and back, joined to the body at a waist seam, and the brief has to fix the length, the height of the waist seam and the fullness of the skirt or the sample will not look right. Write those three lines first, add the front style, lapel and back details, attach front and back reference photos and judge the coat standing, walking and seated on the sample. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send reference photos and the client's height and measurements on WhatsApp.
Grooms ask for frock coats for weddings with a formal or historic theme, and some formalwear brands keep one in their range for ceremonies and stage work. The frock coat looks simple in a photo and is easy to get wrong. A skirt that stops above the knee looks like a long jacket; one with too much flare looks like a dress; a waist seam set low makes the body look short. Each of these is a line on the order, not a guess at the sample.
What is a frock coat, and how is it different from a tailcoat or morning coat?
All three have a waist seam with a skirt sewn to it. The difference is at the front:
Frock coat: the skirt runs all the way round; the fronts close down to the waist and the skirt hangs straight to about the knee in front and behind.
Morning coat: the fronts slope away from the waist button to tails at the back; it is daywear. See the morning coat brief.
Tailcoat: the fronts are cut away square at the waist, with tails at the back; it is evening wear. See the white tie tailcoat brief.
The parts of a frock coat order
Length: just above, at or just below the knee — write "skirt to the knee", or relative to the client's knee.
Waist seam: natural waist or slightly higher — write "waist seam at natural waist".
Skirt fullness: straight or with light flare — write "light flare; no fluting".
Front: single- or double-breasted — write button count and stance.
Lapel: peak, step or shawl, silk facings optional — write style and facing.
Back: centre vent with pleats and buttons at the waist — write "back pleats, two buttons at waist".
Pockets: in the skirt pleats, or flaps — written per reference.
Trousers and waistcoat: matching, striped or contrast — written as separate pieces.
Which measurements matter most?
Height, the natural waist position, and the length from the nape to the knee. The waist seam is the line the whole coat hangs from, so measure where the client's natural waist is, not where he wears his trousers. Take the length to the knee with him standing straight in the shoes he will wear. Measurement handling for MTM orders is in the measurement handoff checklist.
Which cloth suits a frock coat?
A medium-weight worsted or barathea in black, midnight or charcoal for formal wear, or a richer colour for a themed wedding. The skirt needs a cloth with body, so it falls in clean lines rather than clinging or flaring. A very light cloth swings and creases at the skirt. Which cloths can be supplied for your order is confirmed on WhatsApp.
Where do frock coat samples go wrong?
Skirt too short. It reads as a long jacket. Write the length to the knee.
Waist seam too low. The body looks short and the legs long in the wrong way. Fix it at the natural waist.
Too much flare. The skirt looks like a dress. Ask for a light flare and no fluting.
Back pleats open. They should hang closed when standing; write it.
Waistcoat shows below the waist seam. The waistcoat should end at or above the waist seam; see the waistcoat sample points.
At the sample
Standing: does the skirt reach the knee and hang straight all round?
Waist seam: at the natural waist, level front and back?
Walking: does the skirt move without flaring?
Seated: do the back pleats open to let him sit, then close again?
Photograph front, back and side, standing and walking. Review steps are on our sample policy page.
For grooms with groomsmen in matching coats, the order logistics are in wedding party orders.
Which track fits a frock coat?
MTM — from 1 piece: one groom's frock coat, cut from his measurements, with the length and waist seam written on his order.
Bulk — from 50 per style: a formalwear brand's frock coat in a size run, with length, waist seam and skirt fixed on the sealed sample.
The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. The MTM route is on our made to measure suit factory page. For a wedding, count back from the date and leave room for the sample and delivery.
Send reference photos and the client's measurements on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
How long should a frock coat be? To about the knee, judged on the client standing in his wedding shoes.
Is a frock coat worn with a waistcoat? Usually yes, ending at or above the waist seam.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send front and back reference photos, the client's height and measurements, and the wedding date. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-11-02. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
