Clients ask for mohair for two reasons: a suit that stays cool and crisp in warm weather, and an evening suit with a dry sheen. Mohair comes from the Angora goat, and in suiting it is usually blended with wool — the wool brings softness and drape, the mohair brings crispness, crease recovery and lustre. Those same qualities make the cloth behave differently from a plain worsted on the cutting table and under the iron, which is why it earns its own lines in the brief.
What clients mean by "a mohair suit"
Warm-weather business suit: an open, crisp wool-mohair cloth in a mid-grey or navy. Breathability is the point.
Evening and dinner suits: midnight or black wool-mohair with sheen. Sheen is the point; see midnight blue vs black for evening.
A statement suit: brighter colours or iridescent two-tone weaves.
Ask which one the client means. It changes the cloth weight, the construction and how the sample should be judged.
Brief fields for a wool-mohair suit
Field What to write Cloth Reference, composition as stated by the mill (wool/mohair split), weight Purpose Warm-weather day suit, evening, or statement Construction Half or full canvas preferred; ask before choosing fused Lining Full, half or quarter; lighter for warm weather Pressing note Ask how sheen will be protected at edges and seams Trouser details Hem finish and crease; mohair holds a crease well
Same fields as a list
Cloth: reference, wool/mohair split as stated, weight.
Purpose: warm-weather day suit, evening or statement.
Construction: half or full canvas preferred; ask before choosing fused.
Lining: full, half or quarter; lighter for warm weather.
Pressing note: ask how sheen is protected at edges and seams.
Trousers: hem finish and crease.
Construction choices are compared in fused, half and full canvas.
Why mohair blends need care
Springiness. Mohair fibres resist being pressed into shape, so shaping relies more on construction than on the iron.
Shine. Too much heat or pressure flattens the surface and leaves shiny edges.
Fraying. Open, crisp weaves can fray at cut edges; seam finishing matters.
Feel. Higher mohair content feels drier and can feel scratchy to some clients against the skin. Let the client handle a swatch before ordering.
What to check on the sample
Lapel roll: does it sit or spring flat?
Shoulders and chest: clean, without rippling at the front edge.
Edges and seams: any shine from pressing?
Seam finishes inside: neat, no fraying ends.
Under evening light (for dinner suits): sheen even across panels.
Photograph as in our sample feedback photo set. The sample policy explains what an approved sample fixes for production.
Clocks and tracks
Mohair blends run on the same clocks as other suits: sample 7–14 days, production 14–21 days, counted after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. If the cloth has to be ordered in, the clock starts after it arrives. Production days are not delivery days.
For a client order this is MTM from 1, and our made to measure suit factory page explains how that track works. A private-label brand stocking a summer mohair style runs bulk from 50 per style once the sample is sealed. For warm-climate construction more broadly, see warm-climate suit construction.
Ask on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with the cloth reference and purpose.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked.
Is mohair a good fabric for hot weather? Wool-mohair blends are a traditional choice because they are crisp and breathable; weight and weave still matter.
Can mohair be fused? Ask with the cloth reference; construction is confirmed before the sample is cut.
Will mohair shine? Mohair has natural lustre by design; unwanted shine at edges comes from pressing and is something to check on the sample.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd. (Baokang Road).
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send the cloth reference and what the client wants the suit for; we start with a sample. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
