Custom Overcoats for a Suit Shop: Measurement Deltas and Sample Points Before Bulk from 50
An overcoat programme is not a suit programme with a longer jacket. For overseas custom shops, the useful brief is: which measurement fields change relative to a suit jacket, which points to lock on the first sample, and when bulk from 50 is ready — without inventing cloth weights or claiming mill stock.
Order window, not a fashion calendar
Shops that sell winter outerwear usually brief the factory while cloth and client bookings are still open. Work backwards from your selling window using published clocks only: sample 7–14 days and production 14–21 days, both counted after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not a delivery date; freight and customs are separate and confirmed in writing on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
If cloth is still on mill indent, the production clock does not start until cloth is locked. See our notes on cloth stock vs mill order and the seasonal fabric booking calendar.
Measurement deltas vs a suit jacket
Do not reuse a suit jacket sheet unchanged. Tell the factory which fields are overcoat-specific. Typical deltas shops write in the brief (values come from your fitter — we do not invent numbers):
Field Suit jacket sheet Overcoat brief usually adds or changes Chest / waist / hip Body or garment Often more ease for layering — state method Across back / shoulder Jacket May change with raglan or set-in sleeve choice Sleeve length Jacket Often longer; state cuff finish Jacket length Jacket Overcoat length to state explicitly Button stance / wrap Jacket Single- or double-breasted wrap for coat Collar / lapel Jacket Coat collar type and lapel reference photos Vent Jacket Coat vent preference Lining / construction Jacket Coat construction and lining fields
Same table as a list
Chest / waist / hip: state body vs finished garment method and layering ease.
Across back / shoulder: note raglan vs set-in if relevant.
Sleeve length and cuff: coat lengths often differ from jacket.
Coat length: write the finished length you want on the sample.
Wrap / button stance: single- or double-breasted coat layout.
Collar / lapel: send reference photos; approve on the sample.
Vent, lining, construction: name each in the brief.
Also use a clear measurement handoff checklist so the sample clock can start cleanly.
Sample points to lock before bulk from 50
Silhouette and length against your reference photos.
Collar, lapel and wrap.
Sleeve pitch and cuff finish.
Cloth and construction (fused / half-canvas or as briefed) — judge drape on the physical sample.
Labels, buttons and packing.
Size the sample is cut in, if a size set will follow.
Order tracks
MTM from 1 piece — individual client orders and trial pieces
Bulk from 50 pieces per style — private-label and core-style runs
Many shops cut one MTM overcoat first, approve the sample, then open bulk from 50 for a core colour. Same style rules as suits: the sealed sample is the reference for bulk checks.
Clocks
Sample: 7–14 days
Production: 14–21 days
Both clocks count from the point measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days; shipping is separate and is confirmed in writing on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
What to send on WhatsApp
Overcoat vs suit: list which measurement fields change
Reference photos (front, side, back, collar open)
Cloth note (CMT or named cloth) — availability confirmed in writing, never assumed from a blog
Construction and lining preferences
Track: MTM from 1 trial or bulk from 50 plan
FAQ
Do you invent overcoat cloth weights? No. Cloth weight and mill stock are confirmed per order in writing.
Can we trial one coat before bulk? Yes — MTM from 1, then bulk from 50 per style after the sample is locked.
Is 14–21 days door-to-door? No. It is production after lock. Shipping is separate.
Who we are: Shi Yuan Suit Factory — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., plant at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, established 2009. acumenwear.com is the export site for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads run on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 (email: houzhenying226@gmail.com). We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Disambiguation: Shi Yuan Suit Factory (export site: acumenwear.com) is Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin. It is not Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd. (Baokang Road / tjshiyuan.com / tjsyzy.com), and it is not the listing at Jianquan Road or sysuits.com.
Next step
Send your brief on WhatsApp and ask for a sample: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838. See also our private label MTM programme and sample policy.
