A client puts a hand on a wool and cashmere blend and the decision is made before the tailor finishes the sentence. The cloth is soft, warm and quiet. It also asks more of the construction than a firm worsted does: softer cloth springs back less, shows pressing marks more easily and can polish where the arm rubs the body. None of that is a reason to refuse it. It is a reason to lock a few more lines before the sample is cut.
This checklist covers what changes, which construction choices to discuss, what to write on the order, and the order in which to do it.
What changes when the cloth is a cashmere blend
In general terms, compared with a firm worsted of similar weight:
Hand and drape: softer, with more drape and less crispness at the edges.
Recovery: creases from sitting relax more slowly, so the suit benefits from rest between wears.
Surface: friction points — inside sleeve, under the arm, trouser thigh — may show pilling or shine sooner.
Pressing: heavy pressing can flatten the surface; the pressing note matters more.
How much any of this shows depends on the blend ratio, the yarn and the finish of the actual cloth. Composition and weight come from the cloth reference, not from the word "cashmere". How fineness numbers relate to feel and wear is covered in Super S wool fineness.
Fused, half canvas or full canvas for a soft cloth
Construction is confirmed per order: fused, half canvas or full canvas. For a soft blend the question to ask is how much structure the client wants in the chest and lapel. A canvassed front gives a soft cloth a shape to hang from; a fused front can suit a lighter, softer look but should be discussed for the cloth in question. The three constructions are compared in fused, half canvas and full canvas. We do not promise in a blog post that one construction suits every blend — the choice is written on the order and seen on the sample.
What to lock before the sample
Cloth reference: blend ratio and finish decide behaviour — write book, cloth number, composition, weight as printed.
Construction: sets how the chest and lapel hold shape — fused, half canvas or full canvas.
Canvas and interlining note: too firm fights the cloth, too light lets it collapse — write "soft chest" or "structured chest" in words.
Lining: a slippery lining reduces rub inside the sleeve — lining colour and type as on the trim card.
Buttons: heavy buttons drag on a soft front — button material and size.
Pressing note: heavy pressing flattens the surface — "light press, keep the surface".
Trouser knee lining: reduces rub and seat strain on soft trousers — front to knee or unlined.
Pockets: loaded pockets pull a soft front out of shape — tacked for transit, client told what they are for.
The pre-order sequence
Client chooses the cloth from a swatch; photograph it in daylight and copy the reference.
Ask on WhatsApp whether that cloth can be supplied for this order and when it would reach the factory.
Agree construction and the chest note with the client.
Fill the lock table above and send it with the measurements.
Wait for written confirmation that measurements, cloth and construction are locked.
Sample, fitting, then production.
Step 2 sits in front of the factory clock, not inside it. How cloth arrival changes the start point is in cloth stock vs mill order. Then: The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days.
One client or a house line
Most cashmere-blend requests are single client orders on MTM from 1. If a soft blend becomes a stocked style under your label, it moves to bulk from 50 per style, and the lock table goes on the sealed sample record so every piece is pressed and lined the same way. Bulk programmes are described on our suit manufacturer China page; how a sample is sealed on our sample policy page. Shops that also offer blends with mohair can compare notes in the wool and mohair brief.
Send the cloth reference and your chest note on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Do you hold cashmere-blend cloth? Ask on WhatsApp for each cloth reference. This page does not list cloths or sellers.
Is a cashmere blend a good everyday suit? It depends on how often the client wears it and how hard. For a daily suit, discuss a firmer cloth or a second pair of trousers.
Does a cashmere blend change the clock? The making clock is the same. When the cloth arrives at the factory can move the start point.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send the cloth reference, the construction you have in mind and the client's measurements status. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-10-30. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
