Quick answer: Pick-and-pick suit fabric is a cloth woven with alternating weft colours so the face shows a fine two-tone effect rather than a flat piece-dyed plain; shops order it by mill reference and must say whether matching across panels matters. Put the mill reference, the colour names as printed on the bunch, and any matching note on the brief before the sample clock starts. Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) takes MTM from 1 and bulk from 50 per style for overseas tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands, not retail — send the bunch reference and a photo of the cloth face on WhatsApp.
A client points at a bunch card and says he wants that slightly mottled navy that is not quite solid. The salesman writes "pick and pick" and assumes the factory knows the rest. Pick-and-pick is a weave method, not a brand and not pick stitching. If the brief leaves the reference, the colour names and the matching rule blank, the sample can come back as a plain, a nailhead or a different two-tone.
What is pick-and-pick suit fabric?
In weaving terms, a pick is one weft insertion. Pick-and-pick cloth uses two weft colours in turn, so the face reads as a fine mixture rather than a single flat shade. It is still a woven suiting, usually a worsted, and it sits in the same family of quiet surface interest as other small effects — but it is defined by how the weft is coloured and inserted, not by a named pattern such as birdseye or nailhead. Those named patterns are covered in the birdseye, nailhead and sharkskin brief. Pick stitching on a jacket edge is a sewing detail, not a cloth; see pick stitching on private-label jackets.
Cloth brief lines
Mill reference: bunch code and cloth name as printed — two bunches can share a look and differ in yarn.
Composition: as printed on the ticket — sets care and press behaviour.
Colour names: the two weft colours as named on the card — "navy" alone is not enough for a two-tone.
Face direction: any nap or direction note from the mill — wrong way up changes the shade.
Matching: match fronts and trousers, or accept shade drift — two-tone effects show panel drift clearly.
Substitute: allowed or not, and who approves — sample cloth may differ from bulk cloth.
How does pick-and-pick differ from a piece-dyed plain?
A piece-dyed plain is dyed after weaving, so the face is one colour. Pick-and-pick builds colour in the yarn before or as the cloth is woven, so light hits two tones. Under shop lighting the difference can look small; in daylight the two-tone reads clearly. If your client wants a flat solid, do not brief pick-and-pick. If he wants quiet movement in the cloth without a visible check, pick-and-pick is the usual brief. Yarn-dyed versus piece-dyed process language is expanded in today's yarn-dyed brief on the same theme cluster when you need process words for the mill ticket.
Sample checks
Hold the sample next to the bunch card in daylight and under the shop lamp.
Check that jacket fronts, sleeves and trousers read as the same two-tone.
Look at seam joins: a flipped panel will show as a shade step.
Press a scrap if the mill warns about shine; smooth two-tones show glaze early.
Photograph the card and the garment together for the approval note.
Worsted versus woollen hand is in the worsted versus woollen brief. How to ask for a named mill cloth without inventing stock claims is in named mill cloth request routes.
A worked note
"Client ref A-12. Cloth: pick-and-pick navy, mill reference as attached bunch photo. Composition as ticket. Match jacket and trousers from the same piece; no substitute without WhatsApp approval. Sample in the final cloth."
Spec lines to lock
Reference: "mill bunch code and cloth name as photo".
Effect: "pick-and-pick two-tone; not a flat piece-dyed plain".
Matching: "fronts, sleeves and trousers matched from the same piece".
Direction: "face direction as mill note".
Approval: "compare sample to bunch in daylight before seal".
Which track fits a pick-and-pick brief?
MTM — from 1 piece: one client's suit in a named pick-and-pick cloth, with the bunch reference and matching rule on his order.
Bulk — from 50 per style: a brand's style run in one pick-and-pick colourway, with the cloth and matching rule fixed on the sealed sample before bulk from 50.
The sample takes 7–14 days; production takes 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. Production days are not delivery days. Bulk cloth programmes for private-label lines are on our suit manufacturer China page, and how samples are approved on our sample policy page.
Send the bunch reference and a photo of the cloth face on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 and we reply with what is still open.
FAQ
What are Shi Yuan's order tracks and clocks? Shi Yuan Suit Factory (Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi, Tianjin, est. 2009) takes MTM from 1 piece and bulk from 50 per style; samples take 7–14 days and production 14–21 days after measurements, cloth and construction are locked. WhatsApp +65 8013 8838.
Is pick-and-pick the same as birdseye? No. Birdseye is a small woven pattern; pick-and-pick is a two-tone weft method that can look almost plain.
Can I substitute a plain navy if the pick-and-pick is unavailable? If the brief allows a substitute and you approve the new reference in writing before cutting.
Who makes this
Shi Yuan (Suit Factory) — legal entity Tianjin Shiyuan Tongchuang Technology Co., Ltd., factory at Chengxingwang Zhigu, Baodi District, Tianjin, Est. 2009. Our founder brings four decades in Chinese menswear manufacturing; founded Shi Yuan in 2009. acumenwear.com is the export domain for Shi Yuan Suit Factory. Order threads: WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 · houzhenying226@gmail.com. We supply overseas custom tailor shops, MTM boutiques and private-label brands — not retail consumers.
Shi Yuan Suit Factory is not affiliated with Tianjin Shiyuan Clothing Co., Ltd.
Next step: sample or inquiry
Send the bunch photo, mill reference and whether jacket and trousers must match from the same piece. Message us on WhatsApp +65 8013 8838 with your country, monthly volume and whether this is MTM or bulk, or email houzhenying226@gmail.com. We reply with the sample route and what we still need from you.
Last checked: 2026-11-06. Figures on this page were checked against Shi Yuan's own published terms (sample policy and process pages). Anything not listed here is confirmed in writing on the order thread.
